Surfers of Change

pre 1910

Legend Pele, Hawaiian goddess of fire, learns to surf and teaches her sister Hi’iaka

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Hawaii Lava Rock Petroglyph Spirits Island

Petroglyph

Captain James Cook voyage engraving by the artist John Webber

1700s Priests traveling across Kealakekua Bay for first contact rituals

”I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea.

~ Captain James Cook

1900

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Hawaiian Surfer 1890

Jack and Charmian London at Waikiki

‘Father of Modern Surfing’ Huntington Beach George Freeth

First Lifeguard George Freeth

1910
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
1.6 Billion

US POPULATION:
76 Million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$1,000/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 5 cents

”Out of water, I am nothing

~ Duke Kahanamoku

1910

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Hawaiian kids

Local Beach boys at Waikiki

James M. Jordan

Isabel Letham

1920
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
1.86 billion

US POPULATION:
106 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$1,236/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 9 cents
Gasoline: 22 cents per gallon

”There are a million ways to surf, and as long as you’re smiling you're doing it right.

~ Unknown

1920

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Albert ‘Rabbit’ Kekai

Hui Nalu Club – Duke Kahanamoku – (center)

Tom Blake

The Kahanamoku Brothers

1930
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
2.1 billion

US POPULATION:
123 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$1,368/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 8 cents
Gasoline: 10 cents per gallon
Movie admission: 15 cents

”If in doubt, paddle out.

~ Nat Young

1930

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Pete Peterson and Whitey Harrison

Woody Brown

Mary Ann Hawkins

Russ Takaki, Wally Froiseth and George Downing

1940
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
2.3 billion

US POPULATION:
132 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$1,299/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 13 cents
Gasoline: 11 cents per gallon
Movie admission: 35 cents

”The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun.

~ Phil Edwards

1940

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Gene ‘Tarzan’ Smith

Gerry Lopez, Dick Brewer and Ren Abellira in Honolulu

Matt Kevlin and Tommy Zahn

Nick Gabaldon

1950
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
2.5 billion

US POPULATION:
152 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$5,019/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 16 cents
Gasoline: 29 cents per gallon
Movie admission: 55 cents

”Just Take your time - wave comes. Let the other guys go, catch another one.

~ Duke Kahanamoku

1950

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Vicki Flaxman

Ethel Kukea

Shaun Tomson

Conrad Canha, center Makaha

1960
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
3 billion

US POPULATION:
177 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$8,346/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 25 cents
Gasoline: 32 cents per gallon
Movie admission: 75 cents

”Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.

~ Buzzy Trent

1960

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Hoppy Swarts

Marge, Candy and Robin Calhoun

Corky Carroll

Greg Noll at Pipeline

1970
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
3.7 billion

US POPULATION:
203 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$7,564/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 25 cents
Gasoline: 59 cents per gallon
Movie admission: $1.50

”Its not tragic to die doing something you love.

~ Mark Foo (On Big Wave Surfing)

1970

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Jeff Crawford at Pipeline

Jericho Poppler

Peter Townend

Margo Oberg

1980
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
4.4 billion

US POPULATION:
227 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$15,757/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 85 cents
Gasoline: $1.25 per gallon
Movie admission: $2.60

”I took off on a wave, went down the side, popped out the other end, and went, shit, i’m still alive!

~ Greg Noll

1980

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Tom Curren

Debbie Beacham

Cheyne Horan

Robert Nat Young

1990
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
5.3 billion

US POPULATION:
249 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$28,970/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: $1.57
Gasoline: $1.34 per gallon
Movie admission: $4.59

”We’re all equal before a wave.

~ Laird Hamilton

1990

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Sunny Garcia

Derek Ho

Lisa Andersen

Layne Beachley

2000
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
6.7 billion

US POPULATION:
305 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$40,343/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: $1.72
Gasoline: $1.52 per gallon
Movie admission: $6.50

”I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it’s almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

~ Kelly Slater

2000

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Laird Hamilton

Mick Fanning

Janice Aragon

Bethany Hamilton

2010
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS

WORLD POPULATION:
6.9 billion

US POPULATION:
309 million

AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$42,523/year

U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: $2.49
Gasoline: $2.73 per gallon
Movie admission: $6.50

”My Passion for surfing was more than my fear of sharks.

~ Bethany Hamilton

2010

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Sion Milosky

Garrett McNamara

Kelly Slater – Fiji Pro

Cecil Lear Lifetime Achievement Award

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