The Aliens Have Landed: Lemoore California and Surfing’s New Impact Zone

One thing I was not expecting, was that cool rush of wind that sweeps across your face as you watch a peeling wave pass by in front of you. I guess broken water surging ‘shoreward’ has that same effect on the air molecules that surround an onlooker. The other thing I was not expecting was that primal joy of watching water move. And in this case the water moved in a manner, that through whatever scientific or mechanical assistance was involved, created a very surfable wave. After working through the geographical oddity of being 100 miles inland, in the dry heat of a brilliant Central California morning, the sight of a solid head high wave wrapping through an enclosed facility was like watching a new-age movie: a cross between Weird Science and The Endless Summer. Wow I thought, welcome to surfing’s new impact zone: Lemoore, California

Being on the lucky and receiving end of an available VIP pass via some longtime San Clemente surf buds, I got to experience firsthand the Surf Ranch Pro and the historic first WSL (World Surf League) pro circuit contest in early September 2018. While philosophically ‘on-the-fence’ regarding wave pools and their proper place in surfing and pro contests, I opened my mind to soak in this unique experience as the once quiet Lemoore hosted the world to surf its wave.

To say it was surreal is an understatement. In preparation, I forced myself to seek similarities to other surf destinations: will the sun on my face feel like a deep Baja surf trip; will the peeling wave seem like a reef or point break; will the country reality of Lemoore remind me of Hana Maui where it feels like there are more cows than people?  I was hypnotized from the drive to get there up to our first glimpse of the left breaking way off in the distance, only to wrap, peel, bowl and then barrel in front of us on the end section. If you focus on the breaking wave and the lip line offered by the mechanical water body, you can’t help but mind-surf the wave to pieces and then pick a line through the hollow pit. As the last bit of water gushed into the deep perimeters of the pool, everyone kind of looked at each other and seemed to have the same sort of reaction that was a mixture of comical entertainment being washed over in familiar surf stoke.

Adding to this sensory overload, was the display of surfing expertise by the elite WSL men and women wave riders. There was enough variability between the actual breaking of the waves that any claims of each wave being the exact same and boring were for me, immediately unfounded. Sure the waves were similar. But even in the confines of a mechanical arena, water remains its own master.

This was evidenced by a section that crumbled in front of a rider (like eventual event winner Gabriel Medina); or a barrel that outran its occupant (like almost everyone at some point, except WSL commentator Strider drew an expert line on one left tube during one of the breaks). It made for exciting spectating, with the only real negative being that it made you yearn to see how you could handle the wave rodeo busting out in front of your eyes. In short, and i think for most of those that i saw there and those i spoke with, it made you want to go surfing. That was something deep inside I was hoping for; and it for sure happened.

Around this point I was calmly removed off the fence and landed on the side that accepted the Surf Ranch, and the inevitable wave pool reality. Sure I hate crowds as much as anyone, but a world full of surfers is better than a world full of bitter, lame, frustrated and angry non-surfing humans. I know which world I would want to bet on. Plus in another unexpected twist, I could see how the ocean still gets top billing as it can and will benefit from efforts to conserve, protect, and manage coastal resources and environments. Like young children learning at an early age to appreciate the wonder of the oceans and fragile marine life through aquariums, the wonders of ocean waves and the need to protect coastal areas can become seeds of hope that can bear fruit across the lands of our world.

I reckon wave pools can not and will not replace the true magic of ocean waves; and some of us will remain focused on certain elements of this never-to-end debate. However, there are many realms of this experience that are yet to be cracked open or fully understood: like wounded warriors riding waves, or the blind guy that was featured on the big screen during breaks between heats. Hey, they got to go surfing, and that in itself could be the foundation of a happy world in the long run.

In any event, and again speaking for myself, I realized yet again that we all are challenged to have our own relationship with the ocean, and to define what makes us satisfied with our own style of wave-riding and/or level of surfing performance.  If Larry Bertlemann, Buttons, and the Dog Town boys were able to enhance their off-the-lips by carving concrete on their skateboards in the forgotten back alleys of coastal towns, then what is the crime of  getting your surfboard wet on a man-made fresh water wave that delivers a face and a lip?

As we checked into the Lemoore Travelodge motel, it hit me like a rock: surfing is going to change this place. And maybe for once, without the threat of marine resource impacts, overcrowding, impactful land development, and jeopardizing the fragile carrying capacity that most coastal areas inherently possess, perhaps a unique global model is represented by the relationship between the Surf Ranch and Lemoore. A new pedestal of opportunity is emerging that allows and promotes surfing to the welcome embrace of various diverse community elements.

She also told us about her boyfriend who is a pilot and they would fly over Lemoore years ago looking for the phantom wave pool that was rumored in town, by the surf king Kelly Slater. But it was never found because the King had the site physically covered and essentially camaflouged for awhile during the formative years of the Surf Ranch development. Super classic, surfer style intelligence and foresight that represents just one of many ways that Kelly helps make surfers look good.

And so many locals and event staff I talked to were just absolutely pumped to have the world in their town for this first-ever event. Maria and Juan serving the super delicious chicken teriyaki were gushing about their lack of sleep and the excitement they had to work at the event. One common theme I heard was how friendly and fun-loving they found the visiting surf fans. I have to admit, it made me feel good. Maria said catering at the event was fun and profitable, and her pride in the product was not misplaced: as she predicted I ended up having triple servings after initially asking for only one round.

Elle was a security guard that was monitoring a small staircase that led to the grassy area where the band was to play after the event. She was so intent on making sure that everyone saw the 4-5 stairs and did not trip or fall in the dusk hour that day. I offered that those solar lights that are used for landscaping could help if placed on the edges of the stairs and her eyes lit up at the suggestion. So innocent and sincerely interested in public safety. She told me, “hey we are not here to stop a good time, we just want everyone to be safe and happy and return for another event”. Wow I thought, talk about a warm welcome.

Walking through the crowd, everyone had a quick smile and friendly greeting. The surf fans and surfers were easy to pick out; and so were the locals. I was drawn to them to assess their feelings since we all know through experience that surfers are a unique group and dealing with them can be a distinct experience. Sure enough I could not find one frown or negative comment. Perhaps, without an ocean and a local wave to share, the pedestal of opportunity to showcase surfing in this context and setting is void of that emotional attachment that can trim the welcome mat and lessen the aloha.

Through meeting locals and getting various tips and references, I made contact after the event with Lemoore councilmember Jeff Chedester and interviewed him for this story. I was not surprised to hear an overall tone of overwhelming support for the Surf Ranch and the inaugural pro event that hosted the world in his community. Councilmember Chedester enthusiastically praised the various partnerships involved from Kings County staff and leadership, to the city of Lemoore (the Surf Ranch is just outside the southern city limits in County jurisdiction), to fire and police personnel, and various private contractors. 

He was fondly amused how one surfer had called Lemoore an ‘oasis in the desert’ because Lemoore locals (correctly) do not consider their area a desert; however, putting aside the technical accuracy of geomorphologic terminology, the point was that the visitor was communicating the reality of a pleasant experience. He cited many local business people who were happy to have the Surf Ranch act as a vector of incoming visitors to restaurants, hotels, and even the downtown district. My biggest surprise was to have him tell me that a surf shop even opened up in downtown Lemoore! Wow, holy offshore smoke!

He noted the regional benefits from those flying in to Fresno airport, adjacent cities like Hanford reaping benefits in addition to the Tachi Casino. And apparently the Surf Ranch has a constant flow of visitors and people, not just during events. He has heard no negative comments from tribal leaders to County staff and city personnel. In fact he spoke very highly of the staff at the Kelly Slater Wave Company and the WSL for their professionalism, the tours they offered, and overall positive presence in his community.

As a longtime local to the area, he said the facility was previously used as a water ski and wakeboard venue and that he himself had skied there. A wake board champion had performed there as well and we laughed how now world surf champions got their toes wet in the same facility.

In summary he said the inaugural Surf Ranch Pro passed “with flying colors” and the world exposure was a real highlight for the community. Sure many event logistics can and will be refined but overall there were no real problems. There is much room to grow for all involved. As a new paradigm of economic development, the Lemoore community and surrounding area sees the Surf Ranch as a huge positive asset. The open face of the peeling waves at the Surf Ranch are being matched by the open arms of the local and regional community.

When surfing lands in an area that did not have it previously, and the local wave or wave zone is fruitful, then change is inevitable and unavoidable. Countless examples exist around the world, areas transformed by the reality of realization; the realization that a local wave provides value, a magnet for tourism and visitors, and community opportunity. Of course issues of sustainability also emerge: infrastructure challenges, pollution, over-development, crowding and ancillary regional interest which can all threaten the core resource that initiated the interest in the first place: a peeling wave.

Now, the goods can be provided in an entirely different context away from the ocean; and one thing I learned and saw with my own eyes is that surfing is surfing, even in a wave pool. The pattern of community transformation, looking retroactively and diagnostically at other global coastal venues, is in fact predictable and subject to a sequence of exposure, growth and local response. This pattern will play out in Lemoore; and in turn Lemoore will be viewed as a blueprint for other non-coastal areas that will be on the receiving end of wave pool development and the  corresponding growth of ‘local’ and also visiting surfers.

It is this last point I found most intriguing, entertaining and interesting. The initial introduction of surfers and surf style into a ‘virgin’ area that previously had no idea what to expect or encounter can be quite an experience for all involved. Like the bewildered look and reaction of local people on countless global shores when surfing was first making inroads onto distant shorelines. The idea of humans playing in previously untouched waters or perhaps in dangerous waves and ocean conditions can be a catalyst for cultural change and metamorphosis. Over time, there is acceptance, comfort, business and other opportunities. There are friendships, encounters both good and bad, and another version of the interactive human experience emerges that is based on wave riding.

And face it, surfers of all types can be hilarious or at least oddly different and entertaining but in a good way. We can be like aliens that are foreign and exotic to the local culture. Like an anthropological experiment, mix hard core surfers and surf fans into a new area, and sit back and watch the show. It can be, and should be, richly rewarding for both sides of the encounter. And in Lemoore and the neighboring area, I can’t help but feel that the locals are saying “yeah, the aliens have landed, and that wave pool has started a new chapter of reality in our area”. And in Lemoore, there really is no precedent for an inland location of this wave quality. Others are emerging nationally and internationally, but the point is that places like Lemoore have a fresh freedom to craft their future and accommodate the aliens.

Agustin is a security guard at the nearby Tachi Casino on reservation land and hosts an impressive hotel, restaurant, parking and casino complex. They were basically sold out during the Surf Ranch Pro. After enjoying some late night beers with Adam, the wave pool engineer and Christian, the rep between the surfers union and the WSL, and my San Clemente host Eddie Secard (and a great night of discussion and insight that warrants a whole separate story effort), Eddie and i called and waited for an Uber ride back to the Travelodge. Talking with Agustin was quite enjoyable and because of his candor and comments i became committed to conduct my research with Councilmember Chedester and write my thoughts for this story.

Finishing off a great time, i asked Agustin, so hey, how is it dealing with all these surfers that are coming to your town now?  He smiled and said “yeah, the surf guys and surf girls they are all really super nice and cool. You know i have seen surfboards at the beach, but now they cover our entire lobby area; they get stacked up and spread all over the sidewalk outside. They pull 6, 8 or 10 surfboards out of vans and off the tops of cars, i mean, don’t you just need one surfboard to ride the wave? And then all have funny clothes and speak all these different languages. They are all so nice and happy but it is like some weird movie that i have never seen before. But it’s cool – i like it a lot”