pre 1910
Legend Pele, Hawaiian goddess of fire, learns to surf and teaches her sister Hi’iaka
Hawaii Lava Rock Petroglyph Spirits Island
Petroglyph
Captain James Cook voyage engraving by the artist John Webber
1700s Priests traveling across Kealakekua Bay for first contact rituals
”I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea.
~ Captain James Cook
1900
Hawaiian Surfer 1890
Jack and Charmian London at Waikiki
‘Father of Modern Surfing’ Huntington Beach George Freeth
First Lifeguard George Freeth
1910
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
1.6 Billion
US POPULATION:
76 Million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$1,000/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 5 cents
”Out of water, I am nothing
~ Duke Kahanamoku
1910
Hawaiian kids
Local Beach boys at Waikiki
James M. Jordan
Isabel Letham
1920
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
1.86 billion
US POPULATION:
106 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$1,236/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 9 cents
Gasoline: 22 cents per gallon
”There are a million ways to surf, and as long as you’re smiling you're doing it right.
~ Unknown
1920
Albert ‘Rabbit’ Kekai
Hui Nalu Club – Duke Kahanamoku – (center)
Tom Blake
The Kahanamoku Brothers
1930
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
2.1 billion
US POPULATION:
123 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$1,368/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 8 cents
Gasoline: 10 cents per gallon
Movie admission: 15 cents
”If in doubt, paddle out.
~ Nat Young
1930
Pete Peterson and Whitey Harrison
Woody Brown
Mary Ann Hawkins
Russ Takaki, Wally Froiseth and George Downing
1940
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
2.3 billion
US POPULATION:
132 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$1,299/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 13 cents
Gasoline: 11 cents per gallon
Movie admission: 35 cents
”The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun.
~ Phil Edwards
1940
Gene ‘Tarzan’ Smith
Gerry Lopez, Dick Brewer and Ren Abellira in Honolulu
Matt Kevlin and Tommy Zahn
Nick Gabaldon
1950
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
2.5 billion
US POPULATION:
152 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$5,019/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 16 cents
Gasoline: 29 cents per gallon
Movie admission: 55 cents
”Just Take your time - wave comes. Let the other guys go, catch another one.
~ Duke Kahanamoku
1950
Vicki Flaxman
Ethel Kukea
Shaun Tomson
Conrad Canha, center Makaha
1960
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
3 billion
US POPULATION:
177 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$8,346/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 25 cents
Gasoline: 32 cents per gallon
Movie admission: 75 cents
”Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.
~ Buzzy Trent
1960
Hoppy Swarts
Marge, Candy and Robin Calhoun
Corky Carroll
Greg Noll at Pipeline
1970
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
3.7 billion
US POPULATION:
203 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$7,564/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 25 cents
Gasoline: 59 cents per gallon
Movie admission: $1.50
”Its not tragic to die doing something you love.
~ Mark Foo (On Big Wave Surfing)
1970
Jeff Crawford at Pipeline
Jericho Poppler
Peter Townend
Margo Oberg
1980
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
4.4 billion
US POPULATION:
227 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$15,757/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: 85 cents
Gasoline: $1.25 per gallon
Movie admission: $2.60
”I took off on a wave, went down the side, popped out the other end, and went, shit, i’m still alive!
~ Greg Noll
1980
Tom Curren
Debbie Beacham
Cheyne Horan
Robert Nat Young
1990
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
5.3 billion
US POPULATION:
249 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$28,970/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: $1.57
Gasoline: $1.34 per gallon
Movie admission: $4.59
”We’re all equal before a wave.
~ Laird Hamilton
1990
Sunny Garcia
Derek Ho
Lisa Andersen
Layne Beachley
2000
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
6.7 billion
US POPULATION:
305 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$40,343/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: $1.72
Gasoline: $1.52 per gallon
Movie admission: $6.50
”I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it’s almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
~ Kelly Slater
2000
Laird Hamilton
Mick Fanning
Janice Aragon
Bethany Hamilton
2010
THE YEAR IN NUMBERS
WORLD POPULATION:
6.9 billion
US POPULATION:
309 million
AVERAGE U.S. SALARY:
$42,523/year
U.S. PRICES:
Loaf of bread: $2.49
Gasoline: $2.73 per gallon
Movie admission: $6.50
”My Passion for surfing was more than my fear of sharks.
~ Bethany Hamilton
2010
Sion Milosky
Garrett McNamara
Kelly Slater – Fiji Pro
Cecil Lear Lifetime Achievement Award
