© 2010 California Surf Museum
Eve Fletcher Surfing For Life
In 2010, at age 83, Eve Fletcher looks back on over 50 years of surfing,
and still hits the water whenever she can. She is one of the oldest
women still surfing, getting out with many of her longtime pals at San
Onofre. One of the stars of the 2001 award-winning documentary
Surfing for Life, Eve has been regularly featured in newspapers,
magazines, books, and film. Says Eve: “I plan to surf till I drop. You are
never too old to be stoked!”
Eve was working as a cartoon editor for Disney Studios
when she took up surfing. “I was quite a good skier, but I
hadn’t yet tried surfing. Then one day I went to San Onofre
and ran into the most famous woman surfer at that time –
Marge Calhoun. I had a surfboard with me and I remember
asking her ‘How do you do this?’ ‘You just paddle and then
stand up,’ Marge answered. That was many years ago, and
we are still dear friends. In this photo I am surfing on
Christmas Day at San Onofre, wearing a white mohair
sweater for a little bit of warmth. It was too good a day not
to go out!”
Eve has enjoyed the welcoming embrace of Hawaiian
waters ever since she and Marge Calhoun flew to Oahu in
1958 for a month-long surfari. Living mainly in a van that
they rented from Peter Cole, the young women surfed all
over the island, causing quite a stir amongst the locals,
who charted their progress and surfing prowess on the
coconut wireless. They were talked into entering the
Makaha International contest, and Marge won first place
“Don James took this photo of me, and I’m very proud
to have it. Back in the days when I took up surfing, the
fellows didn’t really like us out there in the lineup, much
less catching a wave with them. Most of them
respected us once they saw we were capable. When
they saw we were serious and strong enough, it was a
different story. I am glad if I have inspired some young
women to keep trying, to keep getting better and
better.”
“I want to be in the water whenever I can. The greatest
thing about surfing is that you learn so much about the
ocean, the birds, the porpoises. You forget all your
problems. You love everyone.” These days, when she is not
in the water, she can be found in her garden, using her
artist’s touch to design and nurture.
On a recent trip to Oahu, Eve is pictured returning from a surf
session at Lanikai Beach. The cat (her own) wasn’t in the
original photo – she later “pasted” him in and used it for her
Christmas card that year. “The equipment we use today is
wonderful, and I am lucky I can still be out there catching
waves!”